Park Street remains Kolkata’s party hub, continuing to attract the young and the old, the free-spirited and the tradition bound to its restaurants, pubs and bars that have changed slower than the city itself. Despite a few additions and losses, the street has held on to its hallowed status of being the street that never sleeps.

It is not merely a dining destination, as it is popularly perceived to be. There’s a lot more to Park Street—its grand architecture and its age-old institutions. Park Street-Camac Street has figured in the topfive high street destinations in India and ranked higher than fancied locations like Connaught Place in Delhi, Lokhandwala Market in Mumbai, Commercial Street in Bengaluru and Anna Nagar in Chennai. The fifth position in the India Real Estate Vision 2047 report reconfirms the ranking in Think India Think Retail 2023 published earlier in the year. Only four high streets are placed higher: MG Road in Bengaluru, Somajiguda in Hyderabad, Linking Road in Mumbai and South Extension I & II in Delhi.

But what sets Park Street apart from the rest is its enduring popularity for over a century. A high street even in the early 20th century, it remains just as popular in 2023, having retained much of its architectural character while reinventing itself over time. “A high street is an image. Park Street in Kolkata is one such. It is an enduring image of organised retail, brands, restaurants, roadside eateries and more. Park Street is an eclectic mix, one that has something to offer at different price ranges. It is everything to everybody. Nobody is disappointed,” explained business and brand strategy expert Harish Bijoor.

Architect and urban designer Monica Khosla Bhargava, who helmed the Society for Park Street Rejuvenation Kolkata project, said the charm of Park Street was beginning to fade in 2012 when the society was formed. “The popular perception about Park Street was that it is a dining destination. When we carried out the survey, we discovered that beyond the restaurant patrons, there were students studying in various institutions and coaching centres along Park Street who did not hang out there. The Park Street festival was created to attract the young. Youthful brands have since come in and made Park Street into a happening place with coffee shops, lounges and nightclubs,” she recounted.
What also makes high street stores in Park Street unique, says Knight Frank India director (east) Abhijit Das, is their large size. “It is difficult to find shops of this size in other high street locations. But that also means high rentals,” he said. The rental in Park Street-Camac Street is Rs 300-Rs 450 per sq ft.

​Sushil Mohta, eastern region chairman of Shopping Centres Association of India and president of Credai West Bengal, said the high rentals, coupled with lack of new retail space, could prove a challenge. “Malls offer what Park Street does and more in locations that are convenient without challenges of parking or facing unfavourable weather conditions,” he said. Nitin Kothari, who owns the iconic Park Street restaurants Mocambo and Peter Cat, said, “What Champs Elysees is to Paris, Fifth Avenue is to New York, Park Street is to Kolkata. ”

​It was at Trincas—originally a confectionery that later turned into a fine dining restaurant with live music—that Usha Uthup had first made her mark as a crooner. Other famous Trincas performers include Biddu, Tina Charles, Benni Rozario and Eve. “In 1969, an 18-year-old Usha Uthup made her debut here. It was the golden era of music on Park Street and Usha had been preceded by Biddu. With 80% of the multinational corporations being headquartered in Kolkata and 60% of the Anglo-Indian population concentrated here, the city’s fondness and patronage for good music was not surprising. And Trincas was known for the entertainment that it served,” said owner Anand Puri.

Besides being the party street since pre-Independence times, attracting the young and the old to its restaurants, pubs and bars, Park Street also represents the city’s heritage through its grand architecture and age-old institutions

The road used to be a hangout joint for the city’s affluent and fashionable till the Seventies. But the class barrier was broken over the next three decades and now Park Street is as much a middle-class haunt as any other place in Kolkata, said Kothari.
“The Metro rail changed the character of Park Street from the mid-Eighties. With easy accessibility provided by a comfortable and cheap mode of transport, the city started exploring Park Street and discovered that it was not as forbiddingly expensive to spend an evening here that it was believed to be. We have consciously ensured that we remain affordable for the middle-class for they are the majority of our clients,” added Kothari.

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The roots of amateur astronomy in Kolkata can be traced back to the 18th century when the city was the capital of British India. The British East India Company’s presence in the region attracted scholars and scientists, many of whom were passionate about the night sky. The construction of the Calcutta Observatory in 1786 was a significant milestone in this journey. It became a centre for astronomical research and public outreach. Prominent figures, like William Roxburgh and William Jones, accomplished astronomers and naturalists, contributed to the early development of amateur astronomy in Kolkata. They conducted important observations and fostered a spirit of scientific curiosity among the local population.

​In 1892, the Astronomical Society of Kolkata was founded, marking a turning point in the history of amateur astronomy in the city. The society aimed at promoting the study of astronomy and creating a platform for enthusiasts to share their passion.
Kolkata’s passion for stargazing continued into the next century, during which amateur curiosity was modernised and institutionalised with the advent of Birla Planetarium, the second oldest planetarium in Asia. “Since our journey started in 1 962, the interest in amateur astronomy spread from Kolkata to the rest of the country, with an increasing number of people visiting from other cities and countries to see our exhibition. In the early 1990s, we started an evening course to cope with the burgeoning interest in astronomy among youngsters. It was the first such evening course in the country, ” said Alokananda Ghosh, professor of astronomy at Birla Planetarium.

​Talking about the importance of Kolkata as a base for the growth of amateur astronomy in India, Ghosh said, “Kolkata is a Mecca for astronomy in India. Following the largest and most influential planetariums in the world in London and Moscow, we have been able to draw new talent and skill from Kolkata and engage a global audience in our work. Astronomy is an extremely inclusive subject and the amateur astronomy scene in Kolkata plays a big part in bridging gaps among the celestial-watching sub cultures across India. Today, telescopes are easily available and those belonging to the sub culture spend a lot of time studying the subject and sharing their findings. ”

Ghosh said that amateur a stronomers play as much of a role in unearthing the mysteries of the universe as professional researchers. To sustain this curiosity, sky watching events and exhibitions are held across the year at key places in the city. Abhijit Biswas, also from the Birla Planetarium, said that in July, there was an annual astrophotography workshop.

Experts say the amateur astronomy scene in Kolkata plays a big part in bridging gaps among the celestial-watching sub cultures across India​​

“While the light pollution in the Kolkata sky makes it difficult to see, the experience excites visitors who want to try sky watching and photography in locations at higher altitudes where there is less light,” he said. In April, the lawns of Victoria Memorial were studded with telescopes during a series of “astro nights” — the first such large-scale event after Covid which attracting a crowd from all age de mographics. The amateur astronomy circuit in Kolkata is perpetually evolving. While dozens of smallscale sky watchers’ groups have died out over time, new ones are constantly formi ng. Professor in astrobiology Santanu Roy set up an amateur astronomy centre in his South Dum Dum home before Covid. Having started his collection of telescopes in 2011, Roy’s home museum also showcases possibly the only solar telescope in Kolkata.

“A big factor which sustains our interest in the sky is the increasing notion that mankind’s time on Earth is limited, especially with global warming. There is an extreme need to engage in dialogues about what else is out in space. We come to realise that as a life form on Earth, we are quite insignificant in the larger scheme of the universe. And that is fascinating,” said Roy.

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The maze of narrow bylanes dates back to colonial times, when a group of potters migrated to Kolkata from Krishnagore, a town in Nadia. Bringing with them their age-old traditions of crafting idols with clay, this first generation of migrant potters became the acto rs of a burgeoning cultural movement. The first influx was in 1757, when Raja Nabakrishna Deb of Shobhabazar Rajbari brought the artisans from Krishnagore to Kumartuli to create the idols of what became one of the first domestic Durga Pujas. As the British East India Company began earmarking neighbourhoods, a growing number of these potters flooded the locality and took to fashioning idols of Gods and Goddesses with clay from the river and delivering them to local mansions.

Kumartuli is not just a neighbourhood; it is a living museum and a rich tapestry of Kolkata’s artistic and cultural heritage​

For the most part, the craftsmanship has remained unchanged except for minor innovations, like application of spray paint. The ‘kumors’ start with a bamboo-and-straw frame and layer it with clay. The artistic alchemy lies in the intricate facial expressions of the deities, the painting and embellishments.

“In total, there are over 10,000 artists and a wider network of craftsmen if we include the ones who operate in the neighbouring areas and come here to sell. Most of them are seasonal workers who return to their respective districts during the off-season to attend to farming,” said Sujit Pal of the Kumartuli Mritshilpi Sanskritik Samiti. About 550 idolmakers each hire thousands of workers just before Durga Puja, who work together until the end of the festive season. The idols are delivered to heritage mansions, community pujas across the city and are even dispatched to various parts of the country and abroad. Amid spells of rain, hordes of camera-carrying content creators and inquisitive tourists, the workers remain unfazed and don’t bother to engage in small talk. They work quietly from the crack of dawn to night in the dimly lit open lanes demarcated by plastic sheets draping their workshops. Their work is the economic lifeline of their families back home.

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That was Kolkata’s social club ambience in the colonial ’40s, fashionable ’50s and swinging ’60s. It was the best of times for the clubs, which were established by the British and radiated the city’s colonial past, wearing its legacy that was being hurriedly discarded outside the premises. At most clubs, like the 128-year-old Tollygunge Club, Calcutta Club, Bengal Club or Royal Calcutta Golf Club, men had to wear dinner jackets and women formals. M any still hold on to the dress code in certain areas of their premises despite being scoffed at for being elitist and colonial, while some have partially relaxed their rules. Many new clubs have joined in; though they lack the history and heritage of their more famous peers, they pull in youngsters who love the casual air, innovative food and no bar on dressing.

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Clubs like Tolly, RCGC and CCFC have a strong sporting tradition and continue to host golf, football, cricket and tennis events. Tolly Club had a racecourse till the late-’70s. It still boasts of a stable of horses and riding remains popular among members and kids. While CCFC, the oldest sporting club in India, has hosted first-class cricket matches, RCGC golf course is the oldest in Asia. Calcutta Club was established in 1907 after industrialist Rajendra Nath Mookerjee was refused entry into the main dining room of Bengal Club, then reserved for the British. He launched Calcutta Club with a few others, including some Europeans. The club had equal representation of Indians and Europeans in its administration. “With 3,800 members, we are now one of the largest in India. Unlike many others, Calcutta Club is purely a social club. Some of our events, like the annual debate, are talked about across the country,” said club president Abhijit Ghosh. The club i s known for its library and the delicacies at the bakery festival.

​Club (in pic), founded in 1827, is one of the oldest social clubs; while most old clubs in Kolkata had a colonial and formal ambience, many are now embracing a more casual approach

While most had a formal, a very British stiffupper lipambience, many are now embracing a more casual approach. Calcutta Club allows casual wear till 7pm and the dress code is relaxed in the ‘outsourced’ dining areas. “We have been taking in woman members since 1998. Sporting activities have been introduced to attract youngsters, helping to bring down the average age of members,” said Ghosh.

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A famous song, written by Sarat Chandra Pandit, popularly known as Dadathakur, and sung by Debabrata Biswas, goes: “Kolkata te sab kothate dekhchi bhari bhul/Ki ba kori ghure mori, naiki narakul/Naiko hati naiko bagan, Hatibagan bole/R badur bagan ete dekhi badur nahi jhole (Every name in Kolkata seems wrong/ There are neither elephants nor garden yet the area is called Hatibagan).”

Hatibagan got its name probably in 1756 when Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah captured Calcutta from East India Company. “The nawab aimed to recapture Calcutta from European control. During the preparation of the attack, Siraj and his trusted aide, Mir Jafar, started to assemble elephants at an open area of the then Sutanuti. Thus the area got its name, Hatibagan,” said Heritage enthusiast Swarnali Chattopadhyay and admin of Purono Kolkatar Golpo Society. The British were unprepared. Fort William, housing the entire European population, fell to the Indians on June 20. Siraj renamed Calcutta ‘Alinagar’. Chattopadhyay pointed out there was another theory: A person, with the surname, ‘Hati’, had a huge villa and a garden in this area. This was later bought by Mehtab Chand Mullick, who established Hatibagan market.

Skirting Shyambazar, Hatibagan is among the city’s oldest and largest markets, which has witnessed the changing history of Kolkata. During World War II, the Japanese troops dropped a bomb on the market that did not explode and devastating fires failed to raze the commercial hub. Even now, it thrives with hawkers’ stalls, centuryold shops and department stores doing brisk business together.

​Hatibagan is one of the oldest markets here, offering a varied range of fares, ranging from affordable clothes, cosmetics, accessories, shoes to stationery items, toys, sports goods and sweets, catering to buyers of all sections​​​

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In 2015, two period films — Dibakar Banerjee’s ‘Detective Byomkesh Bakshy!’ and Anurag Kashyap’s ‘Bombay Velvet’ — had also recreated sets with Art Deco motifs. In 2013, the Hollywood movie ‘The Great Gatsby’ starring Leonardo DiCaprio put the spotlight on Art Deco and fuelled tourist flow into Miami which has a fine collection of Art Deco buildings.

With its own array of Art Deco buildings — grand offices along Chittaranjan Avenue, cinema halls in central and south Kolkata, and residential homes in south Kolkata — the city is beginning to see renewed interest in the design style that first appeared in France before World War I and began flourishing internationally in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. 

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