Some would head to Mocambo and hit the spacious dance floor. Some would walk into Trincas for sliced chicken in chilli lemon sauce or steamed lemongrass fish, as they tapped their feet to live jazz music. Yet others headed next door to Blue Fox for classy continental cuisine or Waldorf for lip-smacking Chinese. At Amber, less than a kilometre from Park Street, one could savour Kabuli naan with delectable reshmi kebab. Firpo’s on Chowringhee Road attracted the rich and the famous who watched cabaret at the restaurant’s grand, pillar-lined ballrooms and enjoyed a five-course meal.

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Since then fine dining has evolved with time. But much remains the same at some of the old restaurants on Park Street and central Kolkata, though scores of new ones have sprung up across the city, especially on Purna Das Road, Lansdowne and Southern Avenue, offering fusion, continental, Bengali, Lebanese, Japanese and Thai food for the changing taste bud.
While ‘Calcutta biryani’ has always been popular, you now have many more outlets selling it apart from Awadhi cuisine, including the delectable galawti kebab and raan biryani.

Mocambo, the old lady of Park Street, still serves fish Florentine, chicken Tettrazini and beckty bell meuniere while its sister restaurant across the street — Peter Cat — continues to sizzle with Cello Kebab. “We have jealously guarded the taste of our dishes over decades. For us, fine dining hasn’t changed in terms of the food,” said Nitin Kothari, owner of the restaurants. But now you have new kids on the block, like Chapter 2, that have beckti Florentene, chicken steak mushroom sauce and ham steak that stick to their authentic tastes. “These are classic continental and Anglo-Indian dishes that we try to keep as original as possible. This is our tribute to Sky Room that no longer exists,” said co-founder and owner of Chapter 2 Shiladitya Chaudhury.

One Step Up on Park Street serves shepherd’s pie, khao suey and fish Florentine with original flavours and taste.

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The story of Kolkata’s street food traces back to the colonial era, when East India Company transformed the city into a commerce hub. With the influx of people from various corners of the world, a fusion of culinary traditions began to take shape and gave birth to the street food culture. The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed the emergence of iconic street food items. The kathi roll, for instance, is believed to have originated at Nizam Restaurant around 1930s. It quickly gained popularity as a convenient and flavourful meal for officegoers and students. Peddlers selling kulfi was also a regular sight.
Every street corner is sure to have aphuchka wallah, dishing out spicy and tangy phuchkas to a huddle of customers or ajhalmuri wallah, mixing the modest muri with onion, tomatoes and spices. The neighbourhood tea stalls are forever brimming with people, discussing world affairs over milk tea or lemon tea in bhaars or kulhars. One of Kolkata’s oldest street food epicentres is Dacre’s Lane, a narrow stretch, sandwiched between colonial Calcutta’s office buildings. The chops, cutlets, sandwiches, stew an d juices have been satiating the hunger of office-goers for years. The oldest food stalls are not less than 80 years old, still making the same aromatic breakfast, snacks and lunch that were served by generations before them. Sitting on a wooden bench in front of a 72-year-old stall and savouring a stew, Canadian chef Bashir Munye said, “I have been sampling the spicy, hot food here all morning in the summer heat. Eating hot soup or stew like the one from Chitto Babur Dokan can help you stay hydrated. It replenishes fluids lost in the heat. ”
As you enter Dacre’s Lane, the smell of burning coal from earthen ovens, used to heat tea and fry snacks, wafts in. The earthen ovens continue to be an essential at almost every roadside stall, connecting modern Kolkata with the Calcutta a hundred years ago. Sandeep Ray, who owns a snacks stall, said, “My father and grandfather cooked here before me. We have maintained the same dishes and recipes over decades. ”
At the deepest crevice of the lane is a vegetarian food stall, running for 20 years. Despite the legacy of Kolkata as a non-vegetarian haven of cutlets, fish fries, rolls and biryanis, Tara Ma Stall is always teeming with customers. A visitor said, “This kind of non-spicy vegetarian food, which is light on the stomach, is ideal on an office day. The rotis and naans smell like my childhood. ”

About 2. 2km from Dacre’s Lane is Dalhousie, the office para, where a bustling hub of food stalls of diverse cuisines are lined around imposing, colonial commercial buildings. Tapan Das’s is the only Chinese stall in the area for about 30 years. Pointing out the challenges of preserving the street food heritage of Dalhousie, he said, “We sometimes struggle with people’s notion of lack of hygiene at our stalls. But food safety teams carry out inspections and the regulars who eat here daily do not get sick. ”
Owner of a 45-year-old stall, serving ‘egg-toast’, Shambhu Dholay added, “We don’t get much crowd on hot summer days and we lose sales. But otherwise, it gets chaotic, serving the steady stream of office-goers and tourists. ” Sukant Kumar, who shifted to Kolkata from UP about 6 months ago for work, said he ate at Dalhousie every morning and loved the bustling street food culture.
Although a summertime favourite, kulfis are a classic that remain in demand throughout the year. Singh’s Kulfi in front of Calcutta Stock Exchange has diversified its menu to keep up with the demands of the iced desert-loving customers. An assortment of chilled fruits, like mangoes, are cut and served as toppings. “My father started this stall in 1986,” said owner Brij Nandan Singh. Talking about innovation, Singh pointed at food trucks, serving twists to classic dishes.
Despite the rise of social media-friendly trends hitting the street food market, like Fanta-filled phuchka and Maggi pizza, the humble kathi rolls, chow mein, momos and Mughlai parathas remain the mainstay of quintessential Kolkata street food culture. They reflect a symbiosis of the city’s distinct culinary traditions.

From phuchka, jhalmuri and egg roll to momo, dosa, kebabs, cutlet, mutton stew and kachori, the ‘chefs’ on the streets rustle up dishes of various kinds, tantalizing the taste bud of locals and visitor

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You may have heard about some of the strangest combinations on the internet, like rice with ice cream or chocolate with chapati. But have you heard of the Rasgulla roll? This Bengali dish is placed on a flour base, seasoned with sauces and spices, and rolled up. The innocent white dish, made with spongy balls dipped in sugar syrup, is a welcome treat on every big occasion. However, it takes four of these balls, stuffed in a paratha with sautéed onions and capsicum, to create the Rasgulla roll.​

​Although the food stall names it a Rasgulla roll, it is hardly authentic. As one user commented on the Instagram page of the dish, “I personally tried this roll for this video and it almost tastes like a paneer roll we usually eat. They are using chanar kofta as Roshogolla which is not sweet at all. This place just named it Roshogolla Roll just because these koftas look like Mini Roshogolla.” That may be true or false, but “Kolkata Fusion” uploaded a short video that features marinated Rasgulla balls on a paratha that are rolled into a stuffed roll, complete with ingredients you’d normally find in a veg/non-veg roll.

​Since it was uploaded, the video has received over 10,000 views with thousands of likes and comments. One Bengali user expressed their dismay after watching the video, saying “Is there anything left to see?” While another user asked “Why, just why? Why are two extraordinary things being mixed?”

​The Instagram channel “Kolkata Fusion” uploaded the video and claimed that the Rasgulla roll is in Kolkata for the first time. The food stall where the video was shot is Takeaway Kolkata, Baghajatin.​

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​Kewpie’s, deeper inside Bhowanipore and housed in a striking green-and-red building, started off as a cafe 25 years ago. The building, however, predates the establishment it houses by 125 years. Owner Deep Chakraborty’s family came to own the property 90 years ago. “The architecture represents a mix of Bengali and European motifs, the pillars giving structural support are of European descent but the arches and curvature of the walls are distinctly Swadeshi,” Chakraborty says, adding that the property even had an angan, which was covered up to extend the eating area.

Chowdhury and Chakraborty are part of a growing young demographic of cafe and eatery owners trying to blend Calcutta’s colonial history with young Kolkata’s aspirational lifestyle. The buildings draw on the city’s rich history and architecture and use them as props to draw in ever more youthful crowds, many of whom savour the “experience” as much as the caffeine served in tasteful mugs and cups.

Evening joggers and pedestrians of south Kolkata are well familiar with the sparkling cafes glimmering across lanes and bylanes with a nostalgic concoction of pop and rock songs of the last decade, lively chatter and the aroma of coffee beans. Beyond just the southern part of the city, the whole of Kolkata is rapidly joining the ranks of cities with a diverse cafe scene. One thing that distinguishes Kolkata’s cafe culture from other Indian cities is the restoration of heritage buildings as cafes. The blend of a century-old architecture with contemporary-themed decor and youthful banter makes Kolkata’s cafe culture unlike any other. The further south one travels, cafes begin to line the streets and alleys with increasing frequency.

Since just before the pandemic, hundreds of cafes came up in Southern Avenue and Deshapriyo Park. The majority are built into relatively smaller spaces, like occupying the first floor of a heritage home. A case in point is Bunaphile, running for two years at the ground floor of the historic home of late writer and academic Nabaneeta Dev Sen. The cafe serves the vintage look of any heritage home, with oldworld windows and high ceilings, packaged into just over a 1,000 square feet area. For over a decade, heritage buildings-turned-cafes has been a predominantly south Kolkata enterprise, until the northern part of the city started catching up with a vengeance thanks to social media vloggers sharing glimps- es of cafes serving a distinct north Kolkata aesthetic. One example is Baithak Khana, nestled in a lane near College Street. It features a large bed and cushions which occupy almost half the room, in what appears to be an ode to traditional Bengali adda. The property is over 350 years old. The family-run cafe hosts an array of inexpensive finger snacks suited to the budget and tastes of college students. “This home was once owned by Reverend Krishna Mohan Bandhopadhyay, a member of the Young Bengal Group, a movement of free thinkers from Presidency College, then Hindu College. They would hold meetings in this very room along with historic figures like Derozio,” said Banibrata Nath Khan. His sister Archita added, “The relationship we share with our visitors is heart-warming, the atmosphere is very casual and we treat each other like family. ”

Deep inside a residential lane in Hatibagan, one can find a property with wall art painted in acrylic hues of yellow and blue reminiscent of Van Gogh’s ‘Starry Night’. “The Rowak’s” is painted across one corner of the wall in a playful font. The cafe’s name plays into the distinct cornerstone of north Kolkata architecture. Rowak (pronounced ‘rock’ in Bengali) is not unlike the wraparound verandas encompassing heritage Kolkata residences and temple architecture. Its purpose is simple: an outer space for adda. Its owner, Arnik Basak, has become viral on social media because of the uniqueness of his cafe. Located on the porch of his ancestral home, Basak started the cafe to encourage adda and to create awareness on the fading architectural heritage of the “rowaks”.

With more and more heritage buildings being lost or repurposed every year with no trace of their original form or history, arguably some of the biggest contributors to holding on to memories of heritage architecture and hundreds of years of family histories are Kolkata’s cafes restored from these buildings. Teleporting new generations of visitors to at least a hundred years before their birth, the cafes unite a growing community of youngsters who get a chance to experience a zeitgeist of a historic adda culture from past eras of the city.

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KOLKATA: Kolkata may soon get Bangkok vibes with three stretches being marked as “food streets”, where dishes of different varieties and cuisines will be sold.
KMC has selected the area in front of New Market, the stretch at the south gate of Victoria Memorial Hall and in front of Millennium Park to set up the hubs. The civic authorities are also considering Prinsep Ghat as a probable fourth spot for the project.

Deputy mayor Atin Ghosh on Saturday said the civic body planned to set up the food hubs, modelled on Bangkok’s street food hubs, immensely popular among locals and foreign tourists alike, for their cuisine spread, hygiene and affordability. Food-lovers and curious tourists flock to Jodd Fair market, Chatuchak weekend market, Srinakarin Train market and Silom among other places in Bangkok to get the culinary taste of Thailand and beyond.
The KMC has taken up the project with financial help from the Centre. If everything goes well, the food streets will offer at least 50 varieties of food for breakfast and lunch. “We chose the stretches in front of New Market, Victoria Memorial Hall and Millennium Park, given the places’ popularity among residents as well as tourists-domestic and international. These places will be unlike the existing street food joints,” said Ghosh. The KMC has appointed a consultant, an expert in drawing the models of such food hubs. “From selecting the stall designs to the food to be served, everything is being planned meticulously. We don’t want to merely duplicate the existing street food zones in the CBD,” said Ghosh.

While the KMC would provide infrastructure support, such as uninterrupted water supply, illumination, maintenance of roads and pavements and a special cleaning drive, it was likely to seek assistance from the All India Institute of Hygiene and Public Health (AIIH&PH) in determining the food value of the street food to be cooked and sold in those streets, said a KMC official.
A citywide survey conducted by AIIH&PH in 2005 revealed the nutritional value of Kolkata’s street food notwithstanding, the stalls lacked basic hygiene as was evident from the washing of utensils.

Saktiman Ghosh, secretary of Hawker Sangram Committee, said the food streets were an exciting proposal as street food vendors would get an opportunity to showcase their skills in offering the best quality and varieties of dishes at the cheapest prices possible. “We have around 1.5 lakh food hawkers who need to get trained in delivering the best quality food to enhance the image of the city to foreign tourists. The KMC may pick up the trained food hawkers to run the food streets,” said Ghosh.

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KOLKATA: This summer, sip your coffee and enjoy it, too, as the machine makes its way into legendary College Street Coffee House. With the introduction of “special cold coffee” from April 1, the chimes of change are loud and clear at Kolkata’s iconic adda zone, formally called the Indian Coffee House. The heritage cafe, churning out varieties of the handmade brew since its inception decades ago, is giving in to market needs, at last.
“To cater to the demands of youngsters, we are working on quite a few additions to our existing coffee menu. We start with the machine-made ‘special cold coffee’ from April 1,” said Sarfaraz Ahmed, secretary of the cooperative that has been running the place since 1958. “The ‘special cold coffee’, for Rs 55 and Rs 65, should be a major hit for people across ages, especially during the summer months,” said Ahmed.

The existing menu includes, black coffee, the staple drink for regulars. It’s priced at Rs 20. Christened “Infusion”, extracted by percolation brewing in a traditional south Indian filter, it may be losing its popularity, hinted the waiters. Hence, the attempt to try out newer stuff. “Infusion was all we could afford back then. We sat for hours but didn’t dare look at the hot milk coffee, let alone its ice-cold version,” laughed author Shirshendu Mukhopadhyay.
If you want milk coffee, they stir boiled (not frothed) milk to the brewed ‘Infusion’ and sell it for Rs 25. The same stuff mixed with ice is served in the cold coffee avatar. It’s Coffee House’s most expensive coffee (Rs 45). “The ‘special cold coffee’ will be different. Shots from the espresso machine will be taken and mixed with a blender to create the frothy, iced coffee,” Ahmed explained. “It can be topped with ice-cream,” he added.

Ahmed’s phone has the immortal number, “coffee house-er shei add ta aaj aar nei”, as its caller tune. Manna Dey’s ode to the legendary haunt sitting at the corner of Bankim Chatterjee Street and College Street is still relevant; the winding flight of stairs leading to the duplex hall, once frequented by generations of poets, writers and who’s who – the likes of Satyajit Ray, Sunil Gangopadhay, Shakti Chattopadhyay, Allen Ginsberg and Gunter Grass – seems to be losing its appeal every day. In the process, losing to competition.
“We would relate to this place so much as students (of Presidency College). The buzz of chatter, the turbaned waiters and the aroma of freshly ground coffee keep pulling me to this place off and on. But the soul seems to be missing,” mused litterateur-bureaucrat Yashodhara Ray Chaudhuri.

Artist-writer Samindra Bhowmik said, ” Other than improving the quality of the fare served, it needs to draw the city’s elite like before. Events can be organized with creative people, performers from various fields to draw quality crowds who would once again enliven the air with meaningful caffeine-fuelled conversations.”

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KOLKATA: Sleepy and quiet corners of the city have suddenly sprung to life with a curious burst of numerous cafes, each distinguished by its own theme and aesthetics, growing to prominence over the course of the pandemic.
Despite the constraints of starting a business in Covid times, the ‘neighbourhood cafe’ has become the staple of every residential street corner over the last two years. Food critics and frequent restaurant-goers, especially the youngsters, are excited about these new ‘adda hubs’ which are sustained by the urgency of people to return to socializing spaces in the aftermath of Covid.

South Kolkata has always been regarded as the cafe hub of the city and restaurant owner Mou Roy noted how since the pandemic about 80 new joints have opened in the vicinity of Southern Avenue and Hindustan Park alone. Cafe Koffee Kotha and Blue Moose, both located in south Kolkata, themed in a retro look, were conceived by Roy at the height of the pandemic.
“We were almost on the verge of shutting down during lockdown but somehow managed to stay afloat. Right after the pandemic, we are finding that in spite of a sharp competition between the plethora of cafes in each neighbourhood, each one is thriving. A big reason for that is the trend of cafe-hopping. We have returnees, but every day we get first time visitors who are on a hunt to explore new cafes they have never been to,” she said.

Talking about the phenomenon of middle aged, middle class women leading the cafe industry in Kolkata, Roy added, “The pandemic taught women many lessons about budgeting and for the first time, many felt that they have some disposable income on the side that they can put to use.”
Another popular hang-out spot in south Kolkata is ‘Pancham er Adday’. Being Kolkata’s first cafe themed after R D Burman’s musical nostalgia, owner Amrita Annie explained how she conceived of the idea. “At one point, I thought to myself, why is it that almost every cafe is fashioned in a European style with a predominantly western ambience? I wanted to create a space where people can experience Indian pop culture nostalgia.”

Udayan Basak, a regular at the cafe, said, “We had gone in a large group and we felt like stepping into the living room of a 1970s Kolkata apartment.”

While the neighbourhoods of Salt Lake and New Town were studded by a handful of cafes till recently, cafe owners from south Kolkata changed it with their franchises. One such cafe is Tribes, which owner Shilpa Chakraborty set up in Salt Lake early this year, following the original, located in Golpark.

Talking about the response to the cafe in Salt Lake, Chakraborty said, “While many older people are sceptical of the neighbourhood cafe trend, interestingly our guests range from the age of mid-20s to 80s.”

Cafes have also sprung up in the north. Food blogger and critic Pritha Paul said despite the common perception that cafe culture is lagging behind in the north, the trend is spreading there like wildfire. “One such cafe is Cafe by the Lane, which serves exceptional cold brews. The northern Kolkata residential cafe was definitely born out of necessity, since groups of friends living here would prefer to have an informal hangout space near their homes.”

Student Ipshita Chakraborty said despite the perception that it was financially draining to run restaurants during pandemic, for many, barriers to entry to the industry were reduced with the rise in delivery services and cloud kitchens.

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From out-of-the-box themes to important social causes – cafes in Kolkata are setting new trends and examples every day. While good food and service remain the topmost priority for all, several cafes are going the extra mile by breaking stereotypes and paving the way for inclusivity in their own way. Recent times have seen multiple city cafes trying to break stereotypes by hiring specially-abled staff. With an aim to empower them and help them become financially independent, these cafes with a cause are truly making a difference. This Poila Boishakh, #DoSomethingNew and visit one of these cafes to spread festive cheer like never before.
‘Want to break the taboo related to HIV positive people’

Making an earnest effort to break the social taboo associated with HIV positive people, Ritama Ghosh, along with her father Kallol Ghosh, started Cafe Positive in 2018. What makes the cafe unique is that all its staff members have been affected by HIV. “My father has a rescue home where he has raised many HIV positive patients. With these kids turning into adults, we wanted to secure their future and make them independent. With the help of crowdfunding, we have now shifted to a new address, which has all the amenities of a modern café. Professional chefs are also coming forward to train our special employees now,” said Ritama. Sharing with us the milestone Café Positive has achieved in these four years, Ritama said, “For a cafe working entirely with HIV positive people and sustaining in such times, where there is so much competition, I think it is an achievement in itself.”

‘Empowering special needs individuals, making society aware of their potential’

Colourful, bright and cosy, Café ICanFlyy’s customer service is taken care of by seven individuals battling issues such as down syndrome, ADHD and autism, apart from 13 regular team members. “We also host special needs customer service training programmes and provide employment opportunities at our café with a cause. The idea is to not only empower special needs individuals, but also to make society aware about their immense potential,” said founder Minu Budhia. High on positive vibes, this kids-friendly cafe also has a playing and activity zone. The cafe also aims to address the misconception that special needs individuals primarily belong to an underprivileged background. “Our special crew comprises members from middle and high-income groups. We measure our success by the impact we make on the lives of our students,” added co-founder Preeyam Budhia.

‘Our main motto is to empower young, underprivileged people’

Part of a life skills training unit, the quaint Hope Cafe is run by an NGO and has a group of eight underprivileged men and women. Renu Singh, the cafe manager, said, “Our main motto is to empower young people from the underprivileged or economically backward background. We do not have any qualification restrictions, but every trainee must be 18 or above. We train eight trainees for six months and then provide them jobs by sending them to other cafes in town.”
What’s more? The cafe is run by only women, except for just one male helper in the kitchen. For Renu, the cafe’s biggest achievement is the placement of their trainees. “The fact that they are economically independent and can sustain themselves is an unmatched feeling,” she added.

‘Biggest achievement is making them financially independent’

Run by a charitable trust, Shuktara Cakes is an online-only bakery where a team of specially abled employees whip up scrumptious cakes and cookies every day. It all started in 2013 when French restaurateur Alain Cojean and Paris-based executive pastry chef Fabien Rouillard decided to start the bakery and a patisserie training centre to provide vocational training to these specially abled youngsters and employ them. Bakery manager Somnath Sardar said, “All our employees have been with us since they were young. As they were growing up, we tried to think of ways to get them a job, make them independent. That’s when the French chef’s initiative to train these people and fund the bakery gave them a new lease of life.” The greatest achievement for them is that two of their physically challenged employees are now financially independent, married and have a family with kids. “They don’t live in the NGO home since they are financially independent now. This is definitely one of the biggest achievements for us,” added Somnath.

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What’s Kolkata without its street food? Kathi rolls and phuchka aside, the city’s food joints are bringing quirky menus that feature picks like rosogolla roll, lonka cha, phuchka chop and so much more. Here’s a look at the most Instagram-worthy street foods in the city.

The lonka cha divided the Internet when it went viral. The purists have scoffed at the spicy concoction, but most tea lovers are quite keen on the chilli tea sold in South

Kolkata. Even Raima Sen is a fan! “I was blown away by the taste of the green chilli chai. It was so good that I had three cups!” she said during a recent interview with CT.
Pocket pinch: Rs 12-25

Mixed fruit momoLove gondhoraj momos? Then you’ll love the strawberry and mango momos sold by a fast food joint in Howrah. They aren’t just colourful but also have a unique taste. “They’re not like regular chicken momos. They’re quite flavourful. I love the mango momos, especially. The essence of mango in a momo is so unique,” says Poulami, a momo lover.
Pocket pinch: Rs 35-50

Rosogolla Roll
The rosogolla roll went viral when a food blogger from Kolkata made a video in May. The Baghajatin joint that sells the item has only been selling it for a month or so. “It’s definitely our best-selling item. It’s cottage cheese balls which are cooked and used as filling for rolls,” says the stall owner.
Pocket pinch: Rs 75

Matka pizza
The homegrown spin on a pizza is a favourite all over the country, be it Jalandhar or Indore. A North Kolkata joint near Hati Bagan sells Matka Pizza which is basically pizza in an earthen pot, topped with an ooey gooey cheesy topping. “On average, we sell 150 to 160 orders in a week,” says Avik, the owner of the joint.
Pocket pinch: Rs 90

Rosogolla cha
A steaming cup of cha with a rosogolla? Don’t knock it until you try it! A Patuli joint is serving this quirky pick-me-up. “We do add a few other things to the hot tea, besides a rosogolla. But they’re secret!” laughs Amit, who owns the stall. “But it’s a well-balanced flavour, for sure, that goes beyond a regular sweet tea. We sell around 100 cups a week,” he adds.
Pocket Pinch: Rs 75

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