Nestled in south Kolkata, Ballygunge stands as a testament to the city's evolving character, where heritage seamlessly blends with contemporary urban life. The locality, whose name derives from the Bengali word 'bali' (sand), was once a thriving sand trading hub before transforming into an elite residential settlement in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The area's transformation began in 1717 when East India Company secured rental rights from Mughal Emperor Farrukhsiyar for 38 villages surrounding their settlement. After defeating Siraj-ud-daulah, these villages were purchased from Mir Jafar in 1758, with Ballygunge emerging as one of the key areas beyond the Maratha Ditch. The neighbourhood's prestigious character was established early, with British Raj representative Emily Eden comparing it to "our Eltham or Lewisham" in 1840. The early 20th century brought further prosperity as wealthy industrialists involved in jute, coal, and tea trades made Ballygunge their home.
Jayati Gupta, more popularly known as Bunny Gupta, recalls the area's earlier days: "I was born in 1936 at a house on Ballygunge Circular Road where Surya Apartment now stands. My grandfather came and settled here from Badurbagan in north Kolkata. This was CIT land. Several other families that lived in congested north Kolkata moved to the area and built houses in Ballygunge."
The raconteur, who lives in one of the few surviving garden bungalows on Sunny Park, said several notable personalities lived here and in the adjoining streets of Queen's Park, Mayfair Road, and Ballygunge Park Road. "There were many well-known families who lived here, including the families of Ashutosh Chowdhury, the Tagores, and Lord Sinha," recollected Gupta, who co-authored the popular 'Calcutta Cookbook' with her lifelong friends Minakshie Das Gupta and Jaya Chaliha.
Socialite Rita Bhimani, who lives down the lane, elaborates on how some of these illustrious families came to acquire land in Ballygunge. "The upper strata of the society that set up home in the neighbourhood in the early 19th century was a heady mix: descendants of the landed gentry, the professionals who included lawyers and writers, England-returned civil servants, academics, and the entrepreneurs who were the pioneering spirit behind the early business houses," she recounted.
Some members of Tagore families acquired land in the verdant stretches of Ballygunge. Sunny Park came into the picture with Janakinath Ghoshal, who was married to Swarnakumari Devi, one of the four daughters of Debendranath Tagore and extremely gifted in music and literature. Janakinath's family finally settled at 3 Sunny Park. One of his sons, Josna, joined the Indian Civil Service. Sir Josna Ghoshal's magnificent bungalow still stands opposite the Calcutta School of Music. Josna Ghoshal's cousin was Protiva Devi, who married Sir Ashutosh Chaudhuri.
Across Gariahat Road near Ballygunge Phari, Ballygunge Place had a different character. It featured houses on smaller plots inhabited by educated middle-class Bengali families. Ian Zachariah, one of the few remaining Jews in Kolkata, who lives in Ballygunge Place, notes the area's evolution: "The emergence of boutiques and cafes has brought fresh vitality to the para. Various garages have been transformed into commercial spaces. One can frequently observe solitary women enjoying coffee whilst reading books. The Ballygunge of today presents a fascinating mix of old-world charm and contemporary urban life."
The locality features upscale cafes, restaurants, and boutiques specialising in fabrics and silk saris. The traditional markets around Gariahat continue to thrive alongside modern retail establishments, creating a unique commercial landscape. Across the road at Queen's Park, resident and industrialist Harsh Neotia remembers the tranquillity while growing up. "The lane we lived in and the other lanes in the neighbourhood had a languor about them. Shaded trees with bungalows. Very little population. On days, we would play in the streets. There were very few cars and absolutely no worry of being run over. We used to cycle without care. Back then, the arrival of a car would draw curious onlookers wanting to see its occupants," he recounted.
The area underwent changes as time passed. Several old families, unable to maintain their independent houses, relocated. Initially, four to five-storey buildings appeared, with tall trees still dominating the skyline. The 2000s brought another wave of development. "The area has become more active, with regular events at Birla Mandir and GD Birla Sabhagar. The neighbourhood has also seen growth in retail establishments, particularly eateries," remarked Neotia.
Architect and urban planner Monica Khosla Bhargava, who lives and works on Ballygunge Circular Road, vividly remembers the transformation in the 1970s as it transitioned from large bungalows and garden houses to smaller plots with private homes. "This change attracted a cosmopolitan, upper middle-class community of intellectuals, turning it into a vibrant residential hub for south Kolkata's intelligentsia. Ballygunge became known as a home for professionals such as doctors, architects, engineers, actors, singers, and thought leaders," said Bhargava, who considers herself fortunate that her house and architectural design studio are just a seven-minute walk apart on Ballygunge Circular Road.
"My house was once part of the Cohen property, which was subdivided, while my studio belonged to S Randhev, a civil engineer who returned from Glasgow. Encircling the expansive green grounds of the military camp, it is a distinct urban precinct characterised by tree-lined avenues, creating a liveable, friendly, and safe environment," she added.
In the adjoining Sunny Park, author Amit Chaudhuri, who resides in one of the first multistoried buildings that developed in the Ballygunge area along with Saptaparni on Ballygunge Circular Road, is saddened by the extensive construction activities surrounding him. The locality's architectural landscape tells a story of continuous evolution. The traditional Bengali architecture, characterised by large windows, high ceilings, and spacious verandahs, can still be found in surviving mansions. But many have given way to buildings devoid of character.
Nevertheless, he appreciates that substantial greenery remains in Sunny Park, Queen's Park, Ballygunge Circular, Ballygunge Park Road, Mayfair Road, Broad Street, and Anil Mitra Road. "Some bungalows with gardens still exist in these lanes, some belonging to old Bengali families who have built or owned these houses for over a century and others that belong to well-known industrialists. It exemplifies a way of life that defines Ballygunge. Some of it has been erased but hangs in the air like the trees and the rare birds that one can spot every once in a while," he says wistfully.
.png)
Ballygunge's significance extends beyond its residential character to its role as a cultural nucleus. Percussionist Bickram Ghosh emphasises this aspect: "The neighbourhood was home to numerous luminaries of cinema, including Suchitra Sen, SD and RD Burman, and Debaki Bose. Pramatesh Baruah's residence stands on BC Road. The area also housed renowned artists like Jamini Roy and Atul Bose, while writer Mani Shankar Mukherjee continues to reside in Ballygunge. This concentration of talent established Ballygunge as a cultural centre."
Many from the cine world, including Prosenjit Chatterjee, Moon Moon Sen and Koel Mallick reside in Ballygunge till date.
The presence of institutions like the Birla Industrial and Technological Museum and the white marble Birla Mandir further cements its position as a cultural landmark. The area continues to host cultural events, literary gatherings, and music concerts, maintaining its position as an intellectual hub.
The locality's reputation as an educational hub is maintained through institutions like South Point School, Modern High School for Girls, St Lawrence School, Our Lady Queen of the Mission, Patha Bhavan, The BSS School, Kendriya Vidyalaya Ballygunge, Army Public School, and National High School. These establishments have attracted families seeking quality education, contributing to the area's social fabric.
Ballygunge stands as a microcosm of Kolkata's urban evolution, where heritage and modernity coexist in delicate balance. As Amit Chaudhuri poignantly observes, "Kolkata does not know what it has. In the midst of beautiful houses being torn down and tall buildings being constructed, history survives." This survival of history, combined with adaptation to contemporary needs, makes Ballygunge a unique example of urban transformation while maintaining its essential character.
Tradition also kicks in with the Calcutta Cricket and Football Club, established in 1792, the second oldest in the world. Emerald green manicured cricket pitch and cerulean blue pool have been the go-to places for sports enthusiasts.
As Ballygunge moves forward, the challenge lies in preserving its distinctive character while embracing the inevitable changes that come with urban development. "Ballygunge is a bit of suburbia, an oasis in the heartland of an otherwise bustling Kolkata with its lush green trees that burst into orange-red krishnachura blossoms in summer and the koel's plaintive tones that acquire a crescendo rising defiantly above the din of car horns and trundling trams. It has become aspirational for people to come and buy property or flats because it is the posh thing to do and getting a bit of quietude in the bargain," added Bhimani.
