BUZZ AT BURRABAZAR

September 4, 2023

It’s an urban folklore of Kolkata that there is wealth in every nook and corner of Burrabazar, you should know the art to make it your own.

Burrabazar in central Kolkata is one of the biggest wholesale and retail hubs in the country with scores of markets offering specific merchandise each.
Translated in English, Burrabazar means a “big market”. And big it is. The market extends from Jorabagan in the north to Radhabazar in south, from Strand Road in the west to Mahatma Gandhi Road in the east. In between lies a labyrinth of lanes and bylanes with thousands of businessmen, vendors and even traders on foot doing brisk business. Trucks roll into the market, carrying goods from various corners of the country that are carried to different shops by burly porters. Trade starts from the crack of the dawn and continues till late at night.

“One can safely say everything is available at Burrabazar. It is one of the biggest markets in the country and its daily turnover crosses thousands of crores,” said Sushil Poddar, head of an umbrella body of local traders in the central business district. “We joke among ourselves that there is money in every corner of Burrabazar. People who know the art can make it their own. But this actually encapsulates the essence of this bustling marketplace. ”
Burrabazar is dotted with several katras, or markets, each specializing in a certain type of merchandise.

According to a rough estimate, there are over 10,000 business establishments in the entire area. If Posta is the wholesale hub for potatoes, onions, oil, spices and other edibles, Ezra Street and Pollock Street are famous for lights, electrical fittings and appliances. Bagri Market is a one-stop destination for cosmetics and imitation jewellery, while Amartalla Street is a toy hub.

“Times when it was difficult to spot the pavements in Burrabazar are long gone. Now, we can’t even spot the carriageway because every inch of space is encroached upon. Every inch is precious,” said Vikas Rajgaria, a businessman who also lives in Burrabazar. “The market’s biggest blessing is also its bane. Such is the pressure of business that every inch has been taken over by traders, hawkers and transporters. Buildings are ill-maintained and even common passages are encroached upon. Due to disputes between landlords and tenants it has become impossible to introduce modern fire safety measures in most buildings that house hundreds of shops,” said Shyamsundar Rajgaria, one of the veteran businessmen in Burrabazar.

Not only wholesale and retail merchandise, Burrabazar is also a delight for vegetarian food and chaats. From vegetarian eateries to road-side stalls, lipsmacking food is available everywhere. “We shifted to Bangur two decades ago. But even today, we go to Burrabazar for Sunday morning breakfast. The taste of the food apart, the memories of our childhood that we associate with the place draws us to Burrabazar,” said Shubhi Bagla, a former resident of Burrabazar.

The market hub, despite the trade, commerce and money, has its share of infamy. The business hub has seen some of the worst blazes in the city, in which goods and property worth hundreds of crores were destroyed. In 2008, a fire that had broken out at Nandaram Market had raged on for over 100 hours. Ten years later, another blaze erupted at Bagri Market, razing a portion of the hub. Fire-fighters took over 80 hours to bring it under control. The fires had raised questions about safety measures that were ignored and the hazardous actions, like using tarpaulins to cover the ‘dalas’ stacked in the corridors of the buildings. Gradually, traders started implementing the safety measures to secure their goods and lives. But despite the hazards, there is colour in every corner. And during Holi, the hues turn brighter. The “Rolls Royce Holi” of Burrabazar, which celebrates the arrival of spring on a vintage Rolls Royce car belonging to Rudyard Kipling, attracts photographers, social media enthusiasts and revellers from far and wide.

Burrabazar is a world of its own, complete with scores of markets selling varied fares, ranging from spices and grocery to clothes, cosmetics, toys, lights and decorations. Foodies often go looking for chaats and lassi at the market. It might appear to be the unlikeliest place but the trading hub also has a ‘kusti’ ring right in the middle.

During Diwali, Burrabazar transforms into a festive zone with lights and fireworks, and shops stocking up on sweets, firecrackers and decorations. With its fares, trade, trucks, festivity and cheek-by-jowl shops, Burrabazar might be a picture of chaos but it is a place where dreams come true. The likes of industrialist Sunil Mittal would agree.